Helena Wrap Dress(es)
A word to the wise: remember to check that the scale of your print-at-home pattern is correct BEFORE cutting out your fabric...
I bought this really cool, literally one of a kind, hand-dyed fabric at a sewing convention and bought the Helena Wrap Dress pattern which I thought would suit it. I printed out the pattern, taped it together, layed out my pieces, cut them out, and started to assemble. And to my horror, the bodice seemed weirdly...
short.
Then I had a flashback to that moment when I was about to print my pattern and I saw a little checked box that said "scale print." Hm. Wonder if that's important? Probably fine. Cut to the current timeline where it was decidedly NOT FINE.
Even after failing to uncheck that innocuous little box, I thought to myself "oh, I'll just check that the scale is right by measuring that little 1 inch box that's usually on printable patterns." However, after I printed it, I didn't see that little box so I just...forgot about it? UGH!
But this tragic beginning has a happy ending!
Thinking this mistake was irreparable, I bought a different fabric to make the dress—a pink cotton with woven daisy stripes. Aside from the printing mishap, this dress was pretty fun to put together! I really like that it was easy to choose different sizes for the bust, waist and hips. I chose a size 38 for my bust, and size 42 for my waist and hips. I was able to easily reduce the number of pleats for the bodice for it to fit the waistband. I chose the same size for the waistband and skirt pieces, but if you needed different sizes, it's as easy as changing the amount of gathering in the skirt.
You can also choose between inseam pockets or patch pockets on the front (if you're feeling wild, you could do both 🤪) I chose inseam pockets, and modified the pocket pattern slightly to conserve fashion fabric: I made the edges from the fashion fabric, and then the rest out of some scrap linen.
My favorite element of the dress was the folded neckband. Instead of the neckband and front bodice being two separate pieces, the look of a neckband was created with a clever dart! You can sorta see it here:
The only complaint I have is that the pattern did not have an accurate amount of yardage for interfacing. I think 3 yards ended up being the right amount, when it called for 1 yard. I'm chalking that up to a possible difference in interface bolt widths between the US and France. Because what I'm able to find here is usually 20" wide, while the pattern called for 60" wide fashion fabric (which I didn't realize they might have also meant needed to be the width for the interfacing too). The fashion fabric I got was 45" so I also had to buy more yardage of that, but I was still able to fit my largest pattern piece on it, but had to cut it twice on a single layer.
When I finished the dress, I went to the park to take pictures, and was delighted to see a whole field of daisies! The perfect backdrop.
Eventually, after my frustration subsided, I decided to go back and finish the dress in the original fabric. I thought it might fit my mom instead, and...surprise? It actually fit me! The waist does sit higher than it's meant to, but I think it looks fine! If anything, it gaps a bit less at the front than the daisy dress. In conclusion: not every mistake is the end of the world. Sometimes it's best to just see things through :)
Comments